RESOURCES & MAINTENANCE

From time to time, a slight algae or slime forms on all vessels.  The bottom painted portion of the hull can be wiped off with a coarse Turkish towel or a piece of old rug while the boat is in the water.  Do not use a stiff or abrasive material to clean the bottom paint.  The bottom paint should be inspected annually.  If it needs repainting, flush the old paint and wash with hot water and laundry detergent.  Rinse well and let surface dry completely.  Feather any deep scratches with sandpaper and repaint, following the directions on the bottom paint label.  Replacement coating can be ordered from your Boston Whaler dealer.  Fiberglass hulls should never be hauled, painted and relaunched the same day, since this does not allow sufficient time for the moisture which has been absorbed into the old paint film to completely dry out.  Generally, 24 to 36 hours of drying time is required.

An inspection of the thru-hull fittings is recommended.  Thru-hull fittings should be checked for proper seal annually and repaired as required.  When the boat is in the water, the underwater fittings can be checked for dripping.  It is recommended that the underwater fittings be removed, cleaned and resealed every other year.

1. Check grab rails for loose screws, breaks, sharp edges, etc., that may be hazardous in rough weather.  Inventory and inspect life jackets for tears and deterioration.  Check your first aid kit to make sure that it is complete.  Check the signaling equipment.  Inspect anchor, mooring and towing lines and repair or replace as required.  DO NOT stow wet lines, as they may mildew and rot.
2. Stainless steel and alloy fittings should be cleaned with soap and water or household glass cleaner.  Remove rust spots as soon as possible with a brass, silver or chrome cleaner.  Irreversible pitting will develop under rust that remains for any period of time.  Never use an abrasive like sandpaper or steel wool on stainless.  These may actually cause rust.  To help protect the stainless, we recommend the use of a good car wax.
3. When instruments are exposed to a saltwater environment, salt crystals may form on the bezel and the plastic covers.  These salt crystals should be removed with a soft, damp cloth; never use abrasives or rough, dirty cloths to wipe plastic parts.  Mild household detergents or plastic cleaners can be used to keep the instruments bright and clean.

Molded fiberglass with a gel coated exterior finish makes up the structure of the hull, deck and some interior parts of your Boston Whaler.  The Gel Coat is the outer surface, often colored, that presents the shiny, smooth appearance which is associated with fiberglass products.  In some areas, this Gel Coat surface is painted or taped for styling purposes.  Wash the fiberglass regularly with clean, fresh water.  Wax Gel Coated surfaces to maintain the luster.  In northern climates, a semiannual waxing may suffice for the season.  In southern climates, a quarterly application of wax will be required for adequate protection.

WARNING!:  Gel Coat surfaces are slippery when wet.  Use extreme care when walking on wet Gel Coat.

Recommended waxes are:  3M Perfect-it Gelcoat Boat Wax or Meguiars #26 Hiteck Yellow Wax.  If the Gel Coated surface gloss cannot be restored by waxing, power buff with a rubbing compound such as 3M Super Duty #05955, followed with 3M Finesse-It 2 #05928 or 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #05990, then wax.

WARNING!:  Care should be utilized in waxing commonly walked-upon areas of the boat to ensure that they are not dangerously slippery.  An alternate method is to use Meguiars #44 Heavy Duty Color Restorer followed with Meguiars #50 Boat Cleaner/Polish, then wax.  Recommended waxes are:  3M Perfect-it Gelcoat Boat Wax or Meguiars #26 Hiteck Yellow Wax.  If Gel Coat is not maintained and becomes heavily oxidized, light sanding may be required before buffing.

If permanently moored in salt water or fresh water, your boat will collect marine growth on its bottom.  This will detract from the boat’s beauty and greatly affect its performance.

There are two methods of preventing this:

Periodically haul the boat out of the water and scrub the bottom with a bristle brush and a solution of soap and water.

OR

Paint the hull below the waterline with a good grade of antifouling paint.  DO NOT paint the engine drive surfaces.

NOTE:  There are EPA regulations regarding bottom paint application.  Consult your Boston Whaler dealer for proper application methods.

• NEVER use abrasive cleaners, detergents or “soft scrub”-type cleaners to wash your boat surfaces.
• NEVER use abrasive pads, brushes or sponges to attempt to remove stubborn stains.
• NEVER use strong solvents or detergents which contain chlorine or ammonia.

Gel Coat and painted surfaces are very resistant to deep stains. Common surface stains can be removed with diluted household detergents, providing these detergents do not contain ammonia or chlorine. Porcelain-cleaning powders are too abrasive and often contain chlorine and ammonia, either of which would permanently discolor the Gel Coat and paint. Alcohol or kerosene can be used for difficult stains but should be washed away promptly with a mild detergent and water. Never use acetone or ketone solvents. Minor scratches and deeper stains which do not penetrate the Gel Coat may be removed by light sanding (or compounding) and buffing.

• NEVER use abrasive cleaners, detergents or “soft scrub”-type cleaners to wash your boat surfaces.
• NEVER use abrasive pads, brushes or sponges to attempt to remove stubborn stains.
• NEVER use strong solvents or detergents which contain chlorine or ammonia.

To protect your deck and non-skid areas from the deteriorating affects of the sun, oxidation, water spots and pollution, use a good quality “fiberglass and non-skid deck” wax every two to three months.

When applied to your deck and non-skid areas, as recommended by the manufacturer, the wax forms a protective non-slick surface which will keep debris from sticking.  Dirt, soot, bird droppings, and even fish blood will rinse right off.

• NEVER use abrasive cleaners, detergents or “soft scrub”-type cleaners to wash your boat surfaces.
• NEVER use abrasive pads, brushes or sponges to attempt to remove stubborn stains.
• NEVER use strong solvents or detergents which contain chlorine or ammonia.

Propellers have two basic characteristics: diameter and pitch. Diameter is the distance in inches measured across the propeller hub line from the outer edge of the 360 that is made by the propeller’s blades during rotation. Pitch is the distance in inches that a propeller will travel if rotated one revolution without any slippage. For example, a propeller with a 12-inch pitch, when rotated 360 would, theoretically, advance 12 inches through the water. No 12-inch pitch blade will, in a single rotation, advance a boat 12 inches. This variance is referred to as slippage. When describing a propeller both the diameter and pitch are given. The diameter is referenced first and the pitch is second. Therefore, a 14″ x 19″ propeller would have a 14-inch diameter and a 19-inch blade pitch.

For questions regarding the correct prop or changing the prop on your engine, please contact the engine manufacturer.

Cavitation is a phenomenon that occurs in all propeller-driven craft under certain conditions.  The surface of propeller blades is not perfectly flat, and as water is drawn through the blades to be discharged aft into the propeller’s slip stream, the water flowing over the curved surface of the blade encounters areas of greater and less pressure.  In those areas of reduced pressure, air bubbles are formed.  When they move out of the low pressure area, these bubbles collapse.  If they collapse while in contact with an object, such as part of the propeller blade or a trim plane, the bubbles create such highly localized forces that they erode the surface of the object.  In the case of the propeller, such damage is sometimes called a “burn.”  It may be caused by an irregularity in the propeller’s leading edge, and should be corrected by reconditioning the propeller or by replacement.  Cavitation is a normal occurrence in modern boats and propeller inspection should be a part of routine maintenance.

Propellers should be free of nicks, excessive pitting and any distortions that alter propellers from their original design. A badly damaged propeller should be replaced, but those that are chipped, bent or merely knocked out of shape can be reconditioned by your marine dealer. When doing extensive cruising, it is advisable to carry an extra propeller aboard. Operating your boat with a damaged propeller will reduce its top speed, may introduce undesirable handling characteristics and will definitely increase fuel consumption. A damaged propeller may also create unpleasant vibrations leading to an increased sound level. These excessive vibrations will hasten wear to rotating and reciprocating engine components and may cause costly damage.

Some of the more powerful motors create a considerable torque effect; that is, a twisting motion causing the boat to ride with one sheer lower than the other. This twisting reaction is caused by the direction of propeller rotation lifting one side of the boat. This causes uneven drag, so that the boat’s bow may tend to fall off in one direction or the other from the intended course given by the wheel. Outboard lower units are equipped with an adjustable trim tab which may be adjusted to balance “steering torque” so that the steering wheel will turn with equal ease in each direction. Follow the trim plane adjustment instructions in the Engine Owner’s Manual. Torque action may occur when maximum or close-to-maximum rated horsepower is applied. Any slight torque may be offset by shifting passenger or gear weight laterally to the high side of the boat.

While often called “cavitation”, ventilation is really a different effect.  At times when a boat enters or leaves a sharp turn, the propeller seems to slip and lose thrust and the engine may over-speed.  This problem is normally caused by air or aerated water entering the propeller.  A damaged propeller can also cause ventilation.  Ventilation can usually be corrected by one or more of the following:

1. Replace the damaged or incorrect propeller with the recommended one.
2. Set the outboard engine at a lesser trim angle (trim the engine downward).

Your Boston Whaler is equipped with propellers which our tests have shown to be the best suited for general use under normal conditions and load.  In some situations, you may wish to change propellers to give your boat slightly different performance characteristics.  In general, changing to a lower pitch propeller will increase acceleration and load-pulling ability, but with a slight decrease in top speed.  Conversely, moving to a higher pitch propeller will attain higher top speed with a light load, but will sacrifice acceleration and power.  Your particular requirements should be discussed with your Boston Whaler dealer.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU USE A PROPELLER WHICH ALLOWS THE ENGINE TO OPERATE AT A HIGHER THAN RECOMMENDED RPM.

REFER TO YOUR ENGINE OWNER’S MANUAL FOR EXACT BATTERY REQUIREMENTS.

Use only AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries with Verado engines.

Your batteries should always be enclosed in the battery trays provided with your boat and secured in place by the retaining lids. The trays will ensure that while underway the batteries will not move around, thus causing damage to components fitted in the same area.

Battery Maintenance

Before use, check each battery and the charging system for loose connections or wiring.
Normal maintenance for ALL style batteries should include:

• Coat the terminals with dielectric grease.
• Keep the batteries clean and dry.
• Remove the batteries from the boat during cold weather or long term storage.
• Only use a battery charger designed to charge automotive/marine batteries when batteries are disconnected from the boat’s electrical circuit.

For Lead Acid

• Check the fluid level in the battery cells approximately every 4 weeks, and more often in summer and hot zones.
• The fluid level must be between the lower and the upper markings.
• Only replenish with distilled water.
• Do not use metal funnels.

The most life shortening experience for the battery is to be drained to zero charge before recharging. When a battery discharges, the active material on both positive and negative plates converts to lead sulfate, causing the plates to become more alike in an electrical charge. The electricity conducting battery acid becomes weaker and the voltage drops, the battery remains discharged, and the process continues until recharging the battery becomes impossible. If the battery does become run down, be sure to recharge it as soon as possible. Over charging the battery can be just as detrimental to its life as running it down too far.

Battery Storage

NOTICE:  Remove battery from boat and store in a cool, dry location. Periodically check the battery during storage.

• Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first).
• Remove the battery from the boat.
• Clean the terminal ends of the cables and battery terminals with a solution of baking soda and water. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
• Apply a coat of grease on the terminal ends of the cables and the battery terminals.
• Store the battery in a cool, dry area.
• Use a trickle charger to keep the battery charged or charge the battery every 30-60 days.

CAUTION!  While the engine is running, the battery terminal clamps must not be loosened or detached nor should the battery switch(es) be turned off; otherwise, the alternator and other electronic units will be damaged.

DANGER!  Never use an open flame in the battery storage area. Avoid striking sparks near the battery. A battery will explode if a flame or spark ignites the free hydrogen given off during charging.

Pump the bilge dry and remove all loose dirt. Be sure that all limber holes are open. If there is oil in the bilge and the source is not known, look for leaks in engine oil lines or engine gaskets. Oil stains can be removed by using a bilge cleaner available from your dealer or a marina. DO NOT use flammable solvents.

Check all wiring to be sure it is properly supported; that its insulation is intact; and that there are no loose or corroded terminals. If there are corroded terminals, they should be replaced or thoroughly cleaned. Tighten all terminals securely and spray them with light marine preservative oil.

Inspect the entire fuel system (including fill lines and vents) for any evidence of leakage. Any stains around joints could indicate a leak. Try a wrench on all fittings to be sure they are not loose, but do not over-tighten them. Clean fuel filters and vent screen.

Inspect the entire bottom for evidence of seepage, damage or deterioration, paying particular attention to hull fittings, hoses and clamps. Straighten kinked hoses and replace any that do not feel pliable. Tighten loose hose clamps and replace those that are corroded. Tighten any loose nuts, bolts or screws.

Refer to your engine operator’s manual for engine maintenance details. Wipe off engines to remove accumulated dust and grease. If a solvent is used, make sure it is nonflammable. Go over the entire engine and tighten nuts, bolts and screws. Inspect the wiring on the engine and clean and tighten the terminals. Inspect the belts and tighten them if needed. Clean and lubricate the battery terminals; fill the battery cells with distilled water as needed.

Electrolysis corrosion of underwater metals on power boats can result in serious deterioration. The boat owner must be aware of the possibilities of galvanic action (the deterioration of underwater metals due to dissimilar characteristics when placed in salt water) and/or electrolysis. It is the owner’s responsibility to check for and replace damaged parts due to galvanic deterioration. Refer to your Boston Whaler dealer to investigate the source of stray corrosive currents. Inboard/outboard and outboard engines are fitted with zinc anodes on their lower units (refer to the engine operator’s manual for their locations). If your boat is equipped with trim planes (tabs), zinc plates are installed on the trim planes (tabs). Zinc protects underwater hardware. Zinc, being much less “noble” than copper-based alloys and aluminum used in Boston Whaler underwater fittings, will deteriorate first and protect the more noble parts. Zinc anodes generally require replacement about once a year. In salt water areas, replace every six months. The need to replace anodes more frequently may indicate a stray-current problem within the boat or at the slip or mooring. If zinc anodes do not need replacing after one year, they may not be providing proper protection. Loose anodes or low-grade zinc may be the problem. NOTICE: Do not paint between the zinc and metal it contacts and do not paint over the zinc.

When preparing to store a boat for extended periods of two months or more, it is best to make sure that the boat and its systems are properly conditioned for such extended periods of non-usage. The guidelines presented below give basic instructions on “winterizing” your boat and boat systems. If inexperienced with the process of winterization, it is best to hire the services of a professional.

In addition, always consult the owner’s manuals of the various systems and equipment on your boat for the manufacturer’s recommendations on winterizing and long term storage.

Engine
Protecting your engine’s vital moving parts from corrosion and rust caused by freezing of trapped water or excessive condensation due to climatic changes is very important. Freezing water in the engine can cause extensive damage to the internal moving parts. Internal engine parts can also be affected by rust due to lack of proper lubrication.

• Replace the engine oil and filter, running the engine to drain out as much old oil as possible.
• Flush the engine with fresh water using flush muffs or a similar device attached to the raw water pickup.
• Let all water drain from the engine.
• Fog the engine while it is running. Spray until it stalls.
• Run fuel which has been treated with conditioner and stabilizer through the engine.
• Replace lower unit gear oil. Check for moisture in old oil, a sign of deteriorating seals.
• Remove the prop and grease the shaft and threads.
• Treat all grease fittings with the recommended lubricant.
• Lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax.
• Check engine mount bolts. Ensure that they are torqued to 55 ft/lbs.

In addition, it is important that you follow all the recommendations set by the engine manufacturer’s operation manual.

Fuel System
Tank(s), hoses, and fuel pumps should be treated to help prevent the formation of varnish and gum. Temperature extremes will cause condensation to accumulate in an empty or partially filled fuel tank leading to fuel contamination and/or premature wear of your system. Fill the tank 95% full to allow for expansion, and add fuel stabilizer and conditioner, following the manufacturer’s recommendations, to provide fuel stability and corrosion protection.

Battery

• Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first).
• Remove the battery from the boat.
• Clean the terminal ends of the cables and battery terminals with a solution of baking soda and water. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
• Apply a coat of grease on the terminal ends of the cables and the battery terminals.
• Store the battery in a cool, dry area.
• Use a trickle charger to keep the battery charged or charge the battery every 30-60 days.

Livewell/Raw Water System

• Drain the livewell.
• Ensure that all water is removed from the drain hose.
• Remove the fill hose from the pump in the bilge and drain the water from the hose.
• Replace the hose on the pump and tighten the two clamps.

Fresh Water System
If the water system will not be used for an extended amount of time, it is recommended that it be drained.

• Energize the freshwater pump switch on the instrument panel.
• Open all faucets and wash-down connections. Activate any sprayers connected to the system.
• Run the system until the fresh water tank is completely empty.
• De-energize the freshwater pump switch on the instrument panel.
• Add a non-toxic antifreeze to the water tank per manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Energize the freshwater pump switch on the instrument panel.
• Run the system until antifreeze is seen running out of all faucets; wash-down connections and sprayers.
• Close all faucets; wash-down connections and sprayers.
• De-energize the freshwater pump switch on the instrument panel.
• If a water heater is a part of the system, isolate the tank by disconnecting the in and out hoses and connecting them together.
• Make sure that the tank contains a sufficient amount of non-toxic antifreeze to avoid freezing and causing damage.

Winterizing the Mister System
If the system will not be in use, remove all the heads from the mister nozzles, clean them with CLR and store them. Do not replace them on the nozzles. Completely drain all water out of the system. Remove the mister lines from the pump. If the in-line filter will be usable when the mister system is put back into service, remove it from the system and store it in an area that will not freeze.

After Long Term Storage
Before you fill the freshwater system, it is vital that it be properly disinfected. The following procedure is recommended to disinfect the freshwater system:

• Flush the entire system thoroughly by allowing potable water to flow through it.
• Drain the system completely.
• Fill the entire system with an approved disinfecting solution (check with your dealer for recommendations) and follow the method prescribed by the manufacturer.
• After disinfecting, drain the entire system.
• Flush the entire system thoroughly several more times with potable water.
• Fill with potable water.
• This should be done annually or before using the system if it has been laid up for an extended amount of time.

Head System

• Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility.
• Add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times while the holding tank is being pumped.
• Use cleaning/sanitizing crystals or liquid, following manufacturer’s recommendations, and let soak for a few minutes.
• Add fresh water and flush several times while pumping out holding tank again.
• Add antifreeze and flush/fill entire system.

Air Handling System
Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for winterization/long term storage. The manufacturer’s owner’s manual can be found in your owner’s manual packet.

Sump

• Drain all water from sump.
• Remove the top and using a rag, clean up any residual water.
• Check all connections and tighten if necessary.
• Spray all connections with an anti-corrosion spray.

Electrical System

• Check all connections and tighten if necessary.
• Spray all connections with an anti-corrosion spray.

Deck
Clean the deck with soap, hot water and a stiff brush to clean up any oil spills.

Drainage
It is important to raise the bow of the boat enough to allow for proper drainage of water from the deck and bilge area. Make sure all the drainage fittings are clear and free of debris. Store the engine in an upright position to promote adequate drainage of water. Ensure that ALL drain plugs are removed (i.e. fishboxes, garboard drain, livewells, etc.)

Cover
When covering your boat, it is best to use a frame of either aluminum or wood to keep the cover up. This allows air to circulate and discourages water from pooling on the cover. Vents along the entire length of the cover will allow condensation to escape. Placing a series of foam pads between the hull and cover will also aid in air circulation and reduce condensation. To help keep your boat dry and mildew free, consider placing commercial odor and moisture absorbing products in the boat under the cover.

Environment
Antifreeze and other winterizing fluids can be toxic to aquatic life and cause harmful effects to plant life. Improper disposal or spillage of antifreeze and/or any winterization fluids can cause environmental problems when allowed to empty into waterways or on the ground. Furthermore, it is illegal, punishable at minimum by fines. Used antifreeze or any winterization fluids, should not be disposed of into sanitary sewers or publicly owned treatment plants. Persons who have any questions regarding recycling antifreeze or other toxic fluids should write or call their state’s EPA office.

Boston Whaler Parts and Accessories are available only through a Boston Whaler dealer. When contacting a Boston Whaler dealer regarding replacement parts, accessories, or service, please have all pertinent information such as serial numbers, model numbers, etc. on hand. Boston Whaler Boats, Inc. has a permanent record of your boat, which is retained under its “Hull Identification Number.” Data is kept regarding equipment and accessories, as well as dealer/shipping information. The “Hull Identification Number” (HIN), located on the starboard side of the transom, is the most important identifying factor and must be included in all correspondence and orders. Failure to include this information may cause shipment or service delays.